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Thursday, March 13, 2014

Why I Love the Train

As I write this I am on Amtrak’s California Zephyr heading to Colorado to spend the week with my daughter and her family.  My granddaughter is now three months old and I haven’t seen her for eleven weeks; since she was three WEEKS old.  I think about how I don’t even really know her at this young age, having put so much time between visits.  But I have a vision of one day taking the train to Colorado to get her, and then riding back home together where we will put on plays, cook, sort through closets, garden, and dance together in the kitchen while singing Kenny Loggins songs.  My daughter calls this “Grandma Camp”.  
 Air travel is great if you need to be somewhere on time, but if you are looking for a quiet, relaxed travel adventure I don’t think you can beat the train. I love the train and I hope that some day I will be able to share it with her.
So here are “Eleven, I Mean Twelve Reasons I Love the Train”:
1.The Crew.  The first person you meet when you get to the train station is the ticket agent, but the BEST person you’ll meet is the Conductor.   There are many behond-the-scenes people as well as a few others who work with passengers, such as the dining car staff and the fella who sells you your coffee in the snack car, but the Conductors keep track of where you’re sitting, so they keep track of YOU.  This is good to know because of #3.  (Don't read ahead, just wait until you get to it.)  
Every Conductor I’ve ever met has been friendly and personable in spite of having the job of keeping a train full of people organized.  I even recall one who thought he was a stand-up comic and kept the passengers entertained on the long ride.   In any event, they are pleasant, light-hearted, and they know their stuff.

2. The Seats.  The seats are comfortable and big enough for you to curl up and tuck your legs under.  Don’t like sitting that way?  Not a problem because there’s a lot of leg room!  And the seats recline; not all the way back but enough that you can tell the difference.  Not like that 1/2-inch of so-called "reclining" you get on airplanes.
The seats also have an adjustable leg rest that supports your calves and allows you to raise your legs a little or almost straight out in front of you.  Don’t feel like doing that?  Then forego the leg rest and relax your feet on the adjustable footrest.
The seats on a train are larger than those on an airplane.  They are two-across, so you get a choice of the window or the aisle.  Many airlines ask you to pay extra for all of this, but not the train.
3. More about the seats!  Unlike an airplane, on the train you get your choice of seats.  I have always taken the train that leaves my town at 11:00pm heading west.  While the conductor will tell you which car to get in, once you’re on you can usually pick any seat that is not already taken.  Just once was I assigned to an actual seat number, and that was only because the train was full.  After the first stop, when people got off, I was free to move to any open seat.  It's as simple as grabbing a small piece of paper that shows your destination and moving it to another seat.  This is done so the conductor can keep track of where you are.
4. The train is relaxing.  If you’re not in a big hurry to get somewhere the train is perfect because NOBODY on the train is in a hurry - not the passengers and not the crew – otherwise they wouldn’t be riding the train! Nobody is going to get anywhere fast, so there’s really nothing to do but enjoy the ride.
When I fly I always feel rushed; rushed to arrive and check in, rushed to get to my connecting flight, the crew is rushed for time to get everyone seated, drinks served, trashed collected.  And speaking of serving drinks, on many airlines these days it feels less about serving and more about selling.  I already paid a good chunk of money for my ticket and I admit that I resent being solicited for more.  This never occurs on the train.  While they do sell food and beverages, it's not the "hard sell" you get on the airplane.  That's because of #5.
5. You can bring your own food. The train has a full-service, sit-down dining room as well as a snack bar.  If you choose not to pay to eat on the train it’s not a problem because they let you bring your own food on board.  If you want something, go buy it.  If you don’t, bring your own.  No pressure, and you don’t feel like they’re trying to get more money from you.
6. The luggage.  To be honest, I don’t know if you have to pay to check your bags on the train, but I don’t believe so.  I’ve never checked my bag, but I’ve also never seen anyone pay extra. The station I always ride into is unmanned, so my luggage is always carry-on.  I take a duffle and a backpack and can keep it all with me; either at my feet, because of all the leg room, or in the overhead rack above my seat.  But if your bag won’t fit in the overhead you can check it and have it stored in the luggage car, or you can place it in the luggage rack at the door of the train.  Your option!  And none of them cost extra, unlike airlines.
7. The view.  For scenery, you can’t beat the train.  First, you’re at almost eye-level with the ground, and the windows are large enough to give you a wonderful view.  I often ride through the Colorado mountains and appreciate being able to look up and see the snow covered tops of the Rocky Mountain or down into the valley to see quiet glacial lakes or the meandering Fraser River.  Even watching the blowing cornfields of Nebraska or the congregation of people at the station is more interesting than the view when you reach top altitude and you look out the tiny airplane windows at the tops of clouds.  Beautiful, I admit, but not as interesting as what’s going on below.
8. The people.  In my experience, the people on the train are good people.  They’re friendly.  Because you are free to move around the train, it’s easy to talk with people.  And they take care of one another.  On more than one occasion I have seen an elderly person, traveling alone, being attended to by someone they met on the train.
On a trip last year, I recall an elderly woman traveling from the east coast to the west.  That trip entails several days of “living” on the train.  It would be easy to become disoriented, not know where you are, how long you’ve been traveling, but someone had taken her under their wing and was keeping her informed of where she was and how much farther she still had to go.  It was a sweet exchange to witness.
On my most recent trip I went down to the snack car in the morning and purchased two cups of coffee.  I suppose I thought I would want two - one for now and one for later - and was going to save myself a second trip.  After arriving back to my seat, another passenger was talking with the elderly man in the seat in front of me.  I overheard her ask him if she could get him a cup of coffee.  I gave him my extra.  It just seemed like the right thing to do.
Might you encounter some not-so-social people?  Certainly.  I recall a couple incidences.  On one trip, my seatmate was a young man traveling from Denver, where he had been living with his sister, back to Chicago, where he would be moving back home with his mother.  I was tolerant of the cigarette smell that permeated his being, and even tried to strike up conversation; “What do you do?” “Nothing.”  Going to school?” “Nope.” From what I could gather he was living with his sister until she got tired of him and sent him packing back home to Mom.
While on the train, the young man called his mother on his cell phone and began to give her his expectations, rules for HER to live by, for when he arrived back home.  The conversation went something like this, “I can invite over whoever I f*&#ing wish!”, he firmly told her.  When he began throwing out the F-word, I politely excused myself, grabbed my belongings, and moved to another seat, thus illustrating both the ugly truth (that there are some people you just don’t want to be near) as well as the beautiful reality (that you don’t have to subject yourself to those people) of the train.
On another occasion I encountered a woman who had too much to drink. It was about 10 minutes before I arrived at my station.  I had my bags and was waiting downstairs near the door.  The conductor was there, as well as several other passengers, who just rolled their eyes, along with me, at her loud, slurred monologue about the differences between Iowa and Nebraska.
So yes, you might you encounter some characters on the train.  It’s no different than the airplane; no different than real life.  But unlike an airplane you can simply choose to move away from them because there is almost always room to move.  People-watching is fun and if you pay attention, as in life, you will see much more good than bad.  The many good people make up for the others, but both make for an interesting story later.
9. It’s a good time to get work done.  When I travel I use that time to read and write, so I love having twelve uninterrupted hours for this.  I have never been bored on the train, unlike airports where I have had long layovers with no peaceful place to comfortably pull out my computer or journal.  Airports are loud and there is no privacy on the plane when you’re squished into the middle seat in your row.  The train lends itself to private workspace, with its roomy seating, quiet, relaxed atmosphere, and a tray table that folds down and slides up in front of you.  That, along with the two electrical outlets at every seat, guarantees that your computer and phone can always stay charged.
10. The cost.  I can only speak from my own experiences, but my train trips cost me no more than a plane ticket.  The other benefit is that it drops me off within minutes of my daughter, which saves her a 4-hour round-trip drive to the airport.  So if I can afford the extra travel time, it is well worth it to save her drive time.  And that gives us more time to spend together.
11.  I have to believe it's great for kids.  Now, I've never taken a child on the train, but I can testify that on my first train ride, which began at 11:00pm and lasted twelve hours, I was surprised when the lights came up at 7:00am and people began moving around that there was not one but THREE infants in my car!  I hadn't heard a peep out of them all night.
So I think it would be easy to travel with kids on the train.  First, they can take "stuff" with them so they won't get bored.  But I don't think kids can get bored on the train for all of the reasons listed in numbers 1-10, but mostly because it can be a fun adventure unlike any travel they've done before.



On my most recent trip I encountered two young children, about 4 and 5 years of age, who were riding with their fathers.  They were taking the day train to the ski resort.  For part of the trip, the two children sat together toward the back of the car and the dads sat together in the seats across from me.
About 30 minutes before their arrival the 5 year old walked up from the back wearing her ski helmet and goggles.  The 4 year old asked if her could put on his ski pants, which he did right there.  I could tell they were getting excited about skiing, and the train allowed them the space and opportunity to express that excitement.  Kids walking around in ski pants, helmets, and goggles?  No big deal on the train.
Like adults, kids don't have to stay in their seats.  Young children can walk up and down the aisle and people don't seem to mind, parents of infants or toddlers can raise the leg rest on the seat to make a "play" area, or a little "nest", as I like to call it, and older children can go to the Observation car.
Did I forget to mention the Observation car?  Well, that might be number twelve.

12. The Observation Car.  The Observation car is a special car toward the back of the train that has floor to ceiling windows on both sides.  As a matter of fact, the windows roll around the ceiling so you can even see partially out the top!  Rather than having seats that face forward, the seats in this car face outside allowing you a full view of the scenery.  In addition, there are several tables for people to gather and play cards, games, eat, or just take in the atmosphere.

The Observation car can be a lively place.  You will see people reading, on their computers, hear them talking on their cell phones, and talking with one another.  It is bright and cheery and can be a fun place to just hang out.
So, are there any drawbacks to the train?  I have three:
1. As I’ve mentioned, now and again you may encounter someone that gets on your nerves, but that’s part of the beauty of being with strangers.  And you are always free to move.
2. I have never been able to sleep well on the train.  I board at 11:00pm for a 10:30 am arrival at my destination.  My return leg boards at 3:30pm and I arrive home around 4:30am, and I never sleep for more than a combined two hours, even though lights are out and the train car is quiet between 10:00pm and 7:000am.  So rather than fight it, I bring my headphones, a lightweight blanket, and curl up and listen to music.  If I doze off, great!  If not, I can nap when I get home.
3. Admittedly, the restrooms have not always been clean clean.  As I said, people live on the train.  For days.  That isn't an excuse, and messy restrooms may be a deal-breaker for some, but I’ve learned to avoid them if possible but always bring a little hand sanitizer just in case.

On my last trip, I went to the snack car to get a cup of coffee and to thought I would just use the restroom before I ordered.  When I ordered my coffee I was waited on by Fred. He told me he worked on the train for 35 years.  He 's from New Orleans and said he works six days on and 9 days off.  After I paid and turned to leave, Fred asked me, "How was the restroom?  Was it clean?"  "As a matter of fact it was," I assured him.  I could tell he took pride in this so I told him I understood that it would be hard to keep them clean and appreciated him asking.  
As I said, if you need to get somewhere in a hurry the train may not be for you.  I have never been more than an hour or so off my scheduled arrival time, but there is an understanding that there may be delays.  No different from flying.
Now I'm not trying to be critical of airlines although it may sound as such.  They serve their purpose and I am grateful for their convenience.  Next time you have some flexibilty in your travel plans, I encourage you to jump outside your comfort zone, buy yourself a ticket and give the train a try.  For me, the drawbacks don’t compare to a good, old-fashioned adventure of riding the rails.  It is a wonderful adventure that everyone should explore.

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